One female remained unimpressed

A man traps a cassowary, a huge emu-like bird, and crawls into it to eat the meat inside, leaving his eyes on a leaf outside. He doesn’t tell his wife. He traps more of the birds and does the same. His wife follows one day, snatches the eyes, and goes home. The man takes a break at the apartments in Rome blindly, his wife scolds him and gives his eyes back. The idea is that men who deceive women have much to lose. In another tale a dead boy’s bones are buried in the hollow of a tree trunk. His sister learns this, and is told she can hear fabulous sounds from the tree but must never approach it. She hears the captivating sounds and can­not resist tapping the tree with a stick. The tree bursts open, and all the birds of paradise fly out. She has resurrected her brother’s bones in the form of magnificent birds—she has set the male spirit free to soar!

In sum: In myth woman sees herself not only as the essential mother but also as the bestower of greater male awareness. THE MEN’S RITUALS David observed closely go further, enacting myths that exalt women’s creative powers even more dramatically. The flutes appearing in the ini­tiation rites for boys are prime symbols of creativity—of all fertility—and they once be­longed only to women, until men stole them. Now that men possess them, they too have the power to give birth. This is demonstrated at the climax, when the boys are symbolically reborn and sent to spend the night at http://www.bitbooks.com/paris_apartments/en/. Indeed, the pandanus oil smeared over the initiates to represent blood imitates female physiology.

For months David sought to photograph the display of male birds of paradise, on which male Gimi ritual is patterned. All birds, so men tell the boys, are created female, but some decorate themselves with bright feath­ers, and so become gorgeous males. When a boy becomes a man, he puts on plumage. The bird of paradise feathers are worn proudly for pig kills, for courting, for ritual theater—whenever a man wants to attract women. Now David told me what he and Fobora saw when, after many frustrations, they were successful at last. In dense forest, in the darkness before dawn, they climbed to the blind they had built 150 feet up in the crown of a tree.

By dawn there were four male birds of paradise—preening, calling, waiting. After half an hour two dark shapes came flitting close. Two females, each a dull brown. The males burst into movement: up their in­dividual perches, each extending several feet, and down again. They moved up and down many times, and on the way down they threw their magnificent golden plumes over their heads. As the plumes expanded into a glori­ous amber spray, the birds fanned their wings slowly. It was dazzling.

The other hopped onto the perch of one of the males. She had picked herself a mate. For among these birds of paradise in New Guinea, it is the female of the species that decides.

Islanders Preserve a Bitter Memory

It being a Wednesday, cock fights were on at Clery’s Pitt near Riviere Pilote. No sport so excites the Martiniquais, particularly the men. I watched one, then left to see the Empress Josephine’s early home, favoring past human drama over present ornitho­logical combat. At nearby La Pagerie, Dr. Rose-Rosette showed me his own repairs and reconstructions of the buildings. “I had no money to give, so I gave time-29 years. The Martiniquais are not fond of Josephine and Napoleon, for he reinstated slavery, they felt, at her suggestion. But it is part of our history, and should be maintained.”

cock fights were on at Clery's Pitt near Riviere Pilote

In the clustered hills, another banana grower, Jean-Louis, packed his fruit. He has several men and seven acres. “I make a crop. I live. I even have a son who shares work, one of six children—six legitimate children. I have surely twenty bastards. Why not? A great many Martiniquais are illegitimate. Life is difficult, you see, but not worthless. Come, we will leave these miserable bananas and go to my house for a drink.”

 

We drove down through hibiscus and oleander and blazing flame trees to Le Poirier, a very poor fishing village where Michel had a ramshackle house at the sea’s edge. Four men were peeling eels in the sun. Their hands being sticky, I shook their el­bows. “Dites bonjour au monsieur,” said Michel. They said good-day, doubtfully. Poirier does not get many visitors. “Mon­sieur’s a writer. He wishes to learn about our life.” “Here?” said one, sardonically. “For­eigners get their information from the Pthfec­ture in Fort de France, and then they leave.” “Fort de France is not Martinique,” Michel replied. “Monsieur understands this.”

Fort de France is not Martinique

“C’est déjà quelque chose—That’s a start, anyway,” said the doubtful man, pausing to pick up another eel. “He speaks French, if not Creole. We will talk to him of fishing.”

They did, with growing friendliness. “We are sentenced to this work,” they said, listing the same problems that cursed the men of Grand’ Riviere in the north, where my story began. “No organization, no means of stor­ing fish, no proper marketing. No big boats. No other work. We sometimes go a miquelon. Do you know what that means? Far, far out. We say `miquelon’ because in France there are two islands called St. Pierre and Mique­lon. They are obviously very far away, so to us `miquelon’ means `distant’.”

 

I saw no reason to point out that St. Pierre and Miquelon lie near Canada. The analogy was clear enough. We drank sparingly at a shack of a bistro, near a little garagelike chapel where candles guttered. The men had built it themselves. “There was nothing, you see. It is best to have a chapel of some sort.” They brought me fruit and told stories, often of bitterly amus­ing failures. “I filled my gommier with flying fish,” said Pierrot, a burly, cheerful man. “Hundreds of them; never have I seen so many flying fish. But so did the other boats. So I got 25 francs [about five dollars]. And the fuel cost me twice that.”

 

But he laughed, healthy and happy in the soft evening. The men shook hands and went off to eat whatever there was for supper. No beef, we could be sure, but plenty of bread and enough good seafood stew—blaff, they call it in these parts—boiled sea urchin and vegetables, to send hungry men well-filled to their rest. We ate similarly at Michel’s house, where his wife had used herbs artfully to make fine dishes of simple ingredients.

France

“France Is Our Mother”

I stayed three days. One night as I drifted toward sleep to the rustle of wavelets among clean stones and the bell tones of frogs, warm, low voices reached into my conscious­ness: two fishermen making their way home. Their Creole came through to me, for the subject was familiar. “This affair of autonomy, of indepen­dence, I don’t know, I’m not a politician, but I’m French, I fought for France….”

 

“Listen, mon vie, it’s simple enough,” said the other. “France is our mother. She created us. She supports us. But… ! She should listen to us and treat us as a mother treats a son, a son grown to manhood. Pi c’est tout!— That’s all!”